In an earlier post, I briefly discussed some of the work I had begun on the exterior soffit. I will now elaborate on that work "below the fold".
Reflektor - Arcade Fire
Before I begin describing how I built the soffit, I should say that the soffit material we decided to use is a tongue and groove 1x6 pine that I got at a local mill. A more common approach to soffit material these days is to use perforated aluminum panels with associated bits of trim. With a somewhat wider than usual roof overhang, Jess and I didn't relish the idea of looking out our windows at such a mundane material type. Comparing material costs, the pine was actually slightly cheaper than the aluminum but is more laborious to install. We decided to install the pine unstained and unpainted, the reason being that it isn't really exposed to the elements and also thinking that it would look nice as it changed colour over time (the almost white colour of the pine will darken a little before eventually fading to a dull grey which should match the colour of the galvanized roof nicely).
"Boxing-in" the soffit:
Where the soffit is boxed-in, a certain amount of rough carpentry was required to build a frame to support the soffit material. A 2x3 ledger was face nailed to the wall opposite and level with the ends of the rafter tails. The rafter tails were then connected to the ledger using short pieces of 2x3 - face nailed to one side of each rafter tail and toe nailed to the ledger. With this frame in place, I face nailed (by hand) the t&g pine boards using 2 1/4""dome-head" galvanized siding nails. Dome head nails are ideal for this purpose - the dome head allows the nail head to stand proud of the wood so that the hammer face doesn't damage the planed finish of the plank. Aesthetically speaking, the dome head nails are also rather nice since they appear like little grey buttons against the lighter colour of the wood.
Where the soffit is boxed-in, it is also vented. Attic vents are built into this soffit type by leaving a wide gap between the t&g planks using insect screen as a backing for the gap. This gap is then reduced by nailing in pine 1x2s up the center.
The main reason I decided to follow the rafter tails over the main entry with my soffit material was to leave exposed the large rough-sawn beams that hold the roof up there. Following the rafter tails was pretty straight forward; simply nailing the t&g boards to what is already there - the most challenging aspect being a few tricky bevel cuts where the rafter tails change direction. I decided to leave this section of soffit unvented for aesthetic reasons.
More attic access:
At some point I may have mentioned (or the reader may have noticed) that I built "hay loft" style attic access doors into each of the gable ends which have been very useful for getting out onto the roof from inside the attic. These access doors have proven less convenient as a means of accessing the attic once it is closed in, since doing so requires that you first climb onto the roof using a ladder then climb up the roof using another ladder to reach the door. Realizing this prompted me to build in another attic access door between the trusses over the main entry which will be much easier to access using a single ladder.
Reflektor - Arcade Fire
Before I begin describing how I built the soffit, I should say that the soffit material we decided to use is a tongue and groove 1x6 pine that I got at a local mill. A more common approach to soffit material these days is to use perforated aluminum panels with associated bits of trim. With a somewhat wider than usual roof overhang, Jess and I didn't relish the idea of looking out our windows at such a mundane material type. Comparing material costs, the pine was actually slightly cheaper than the aluminum but is more laborious to install. We decided to install the pine unstained and unpainted, the reason being that it isn't really exposed to the elements and also thinking that it would look nice as it changed colour over time (the almost white colour of the pine will darken a little before eventually fading to a dull grey which should match the colour of the galvanized roof nicely).
"Boxing-in" the soffit:
Where the soffit is boxed-in, a certain amount of rough carpentry was required to build a frame to support the soffit material. A 2x3 ledger was face nailed to the wall opposite and level with the ends of the rafter tails. The rafter tails were then connected to the ledger using short pieces of 2x3 - face nailed to one side of each rafter tail and toe nailed to the ledger. With this frame in place, I face nailed (by hand) the t&g pine boards using 2 1/4""dome-head" galvanized siding nails. Dome head nails are ideal for this purpose - the dome head allows the nail head to stand proud of the wood so that the hammer face doesn't damage the planed finish of the plank. Aesthetically speaking, the dome head nails are also rather nice since they appear like little grey buttons against the lighter colour of the wood.
Where the soffit is boxed-in, it is also vented. Attic vents are built into this soffit type by leaving a wide gap between the t&g planks using insect screen as a backing for the gap. This gap is then reduced by nailing in pine 1x2s up the center.
Following the rafter tails:The main reason I decided to follow the rafter tails over the main entry with my soffit material was to leave exposed the large rough-sawn beams that hold the roof up there. Following the rafter tails was pretty straight forward; simply nailing the t&g boards to what is already there - the most challenging aspect being a few tricky bevel cuts where the rafter tails change direction. I decided to leave this section of soffit unvented for aesthetic reasons.
The completed soffit which I think looks quite nice. Final trim will include pine quarter round and 1x4 trim in the same manner as previously described. |
At some point I may have mentioned (or the reader may have noticed) that I built "hay loft" style attic access doors into each of the gable ends which have been very useful for getting out onto the roof from inside the attic. These access doors have proven less convenient as a means of accessing the attic once it is closed in, since doing so requires that you first climb onto the roof using a ladder then climb up the roof using another ladder to reach the door. Realizing this prompted me to build in another attic access door between the trusses over the main entry which will be much easier to access using a single ladder.